STARTING A NEW

AQUARIUM

The Heater... Tropical fish require a steady

water temperature of 76º to 78ºF. Fluctuating

water temperature stresses fish, making them

more vulnerable to disease. High quality aquarium

heaters minimize water temperature fluctuations.

The heater wattage required will vary

A clean aquarium is a healthy aquarium

1) The bigger the better: Purchase at least a 20-gallon tank if you can afford it. Contrary to popular belief small tanks are harder to balance and maintain. The larger the tank the easier it is to stabilize water chemistry, temperature and to maintain cleanliness. 2) Don’t get in over your head: Research the requirements and compatibility of your inhabitants before you make your purchase. This will save money, heartache and in turn create a more positive experience. For example, goldfish are not tropical fish and will not appreciate aquarium temperatures commonly associated with fish like tetras, barbs, cichlids and livebearers. 3) Know the basics: Read and understand the nitrogen cycle before setting up an aquarium. 4) Don’t settle on just any fish: Take time to inspect the fish before you buy. They should have a good robust body shape, good color and alert eyes and posture. If you notice split or damaged fins, swollen or damaged eyes, damaged gills and/or body, facial and lateral line pits, abscesses on head and or body, clear stringy feces, clamped fins, unusually dark coloration and/or if the fish is penned into the corner, these are not good signs and should be avoided. 5) Start slowly: By under stocking or stocking slowly, your tank will be more efficient at colonizing beneficial bacteria, you will loose less fish and the nitrogen cycle will become established faster with less dramatic spikes in ammonia and nitrite levels. Even after the “cycle” is established, overstocking can lead to inevitable problems. 6) Getting your fish home: When placing new fish in your tank, float the bag for 10-20 minutes to acclimate them to your tank temperature. 7) An ounce of prevention: Use a quarantine tank whenever possible. A quarantine tank is used to house newly acquired fish for a period of time (generally 2-4 weeks) to determine, before introducing them into an established tank, whether they are disease and parasite free . 8) Think ahead: When planning a planted tank set up, it is advisable to add as many plants as you can to stifle the growth of algae. 9) If one is good, two is not always better: Avoid overfeeding. Your fish should be fed no more than what they can eat in 2-5 minutes; two times daily should be enough. Don’t be fooled by a fishes ability to “look hungry” as this is generally just a conditioned feeding response when you approach the tank. Another important fact: bettas do not feed off the roots of plants. 10) Keep it up: Maintain a regular water-changing regimen. By removing and then replacing 25-30% of your tank water- minimum- per month, will dilute toxins such as ammonia and nitrites as well as reduce phosphates that contribute to algae growth. While the above regimen is the bare minimum, 10-20% can be done weekly or bi-weekly and will actually keep your tank and its inhabitants healthier in the long run. Large volume water changes (50% or more) can be stressful on your fish. Be sure that your replacement water is the same temperature so as to avoid any adverse effects. If chlorine or chloramines are present in your replacement water you will need to use a product that renders these harmless, HBH’s Tank Prep or Bowl Prep products are a perfect choice. 11) Don’t forget: Vacuum gravel once per month or as needed. Begin by inserting the vacuum end into the tank and start a vacuum, then push the vacuum end into the gravel about 1-2 inches (follow manufacturers instructions as they tend to vary slightly). This will allow you to leave the gravel behind when doing a water change while pulling out unwanted debris and toxins. Repeat this over the entire surface of your gravel. If you have live plants, be careful not to uproot them. This will not destroy or eliminate the presence of beneficial bacteria. However, if vacuuming is not done regularly, accumulated toxins may be released into the tank environment, and under gravel filters may become clogged, leading to severe problems. 12) Clean up: Clean all sponges and reusable filter media in aquarium water (not in aquarium). Siphon some of the original tank water into a bucket or separate holding receptacle. You can then rinse filter media and squeeze sponges in water that has no chemicals and is of the same temperature. This will preserve enough acclimatized water in the tank to sustain the beneficial bacteria, without fouling your tank water. Never sterilize these components unless contaminated and never use tap water as it may destroy beneficial bacteria. 13) Boost it up: Small amounts of gravel, filter media and/or water from an established tank can help to jumpstart the production of beneficial bacteria. You can also use a biological boosting product such as HBH’s Termin-ITE 200 for the very best results. 14) Know what you need: Understand water additives and follow all instructions before using. These types of products should only be used when necessary. It is a common myth that you need every water treatment and chemical out there. You don’t! You only need the ones that fit your particular needs. Over use of these products makes it difficult to understand what is really wrong when a problem arises. Keep it simple. 15) Lights, action: The use of timers on your lights will give a consistent photoperiod for your fish and plants. This will also increase the ability of your species of fish to spawn and similarly stimulate plant growth. 16) Stress management: The use of a background will reduce the stress on your fish. Fish feel more secure when not exposed on all sides. 17) Be prepared: Two medium heaters rather than one big one, can help to avoid dramatic drops in temperature if one of them fails. Set one to the desired temperature and the second just below that. This will allow you to observe any fluctuations in temperature and help to determine if one of your heaters is not functioning properly. Two medium heaters can also help to heat your tank more evenly. This will not overheat your tank, as one is set below the other and will only come on if the temperature drops low enough. 18) Think back up: It is not a bad idea to also use two types of filtering systems in your aquarium. It will help keep your aquarium cleaner as well as creating a backup in case one fails. 19) This is not pop art: Choose aquarium furnishings to imitate your fish’s natural environment as closely as you can. Aquarium related books, natural science books and magazines and the Internet are great sources of information when considering the correct furnishings. A more natural looking habitat will reduce the stress on your fish and be far more appealing to the eye. 20) Zen: Information is the key to a successful experience in aquarium keeping. Books and magazines are invaluable sources of information that should never be overlooked and can only lead to success, inspiration and rewards. Joining a local, national or even international aquarium club will enhance your success rate and put you in contact with knowledgeable people with similar interests. Learning about all aspects of this exciting hobby will contribute greatly to your enjoyment and may spark your interest in other types of aquarium environments. Never be afraid to experiment, but be willing to do your homework. The Nitrogen Cycle By Mike Hook HBH Research Institute Introduction: Every aquarium hobbyist should understand the fundamentals of the nitrogen cycle (sometimes called “new tank syndrome”) before entering into the exciting hobby of aquarium keeping. Knowing this cycle will enable both the beginner and the long-term hobbyist to better understand what is going on inside the artificial environment he/she has created and, in turn, provide a successful and more positive experience. • Important note: When setting up an aquarium for the first time, it is advisable to stock very few fish---only one or two danios, minnows, sm. Goldfish or damsels per 10-20 gallons. Feed lightly, and use a biological boosting product like HBH’s Termin-ite 200 to help build up beneficial bacteria. Keeping a low level of fish stock for the first 4-6 weeks will decrease fish loss and increase your level of success. Test kits are an invaluable tool so don’t be afraid to use them. Nitrification: Nitrification is the process by which toxic ammonia (NH3) and non-toxic ammonium (NH4+) are converted into nitrites (NO2-/toxic) and then nitrates (NO3-/non-toxic in low levels). Ammonia & Ammonium: The first stage of the nitrogen cycle, in aquarium water, begins when proteins break down into ammonia. Proteins are found in fish wastes, uneaten food, and other decaying organic matter (detritus from plants or dead fish). The conversion or decomposition of these materials begins the necessary and natural cycle of the home aquarium. However, if left unchecked, this cycle can be one of the most detrimental. Ammonia is easily and rapidly dissolved in water and can quickly cause a variety of problems. Ammonia is readily found in a pH level over 7.0 (neutral) and increases as the water’s pH and temperature increases. Ammonia produces low levels of ammonium, a relatively non-toxic chemical. Ammonium is predominantly present in lower pH environments (6.9 or less) and doesn’t carry the multitude of problems associated with the more toxic, ammonia. However, it should still be kept in check. Due to high salinity levels, ammonia is 30% less toxic in salt water. Ammonia contributes to a large number of physiological problems in fish and invertebrates. Some of these are: 1) The reduction of hemoglobin’s ability to carry oxygen to the blood. 2) An increase in respiration activity contributing to more ammonia buildup. 3) The irritation of gills caused by the deterioration of the mucus layer. This leads to swelling and in some cases the formation of new cells on the lamellae (known as hyperplasia). This further impairs the up take of oxygen. High levels of ammonia can also lead to the sloughing off of the mucus membrane on both the skin and the intestines creating lesions or external bleeding and internal bleeding of the organs. The brain and central nervous system can also be permanently damaged. Stress related illnesses accompany high levels of ammonia and poor water quality. If left unchecked, such conditions can prove fatal to your fish population. Nitrites The second stage of the nitrogen cycle is the conversion of ammonia to nitrites through the aerobic activity (oxygen dependant) of the Nitrosomonas bacteria. Nitrites are less toxic than ammonia but should never be over looked. Fish and invertebrates can experience several devastating side effects from nitrite exposure. High nitrite conditions impede the blood’s ability to carry oxygen by oxidizing the iron into methaemoglobin. Methaemoglobin can’t carry oxygen in the blood and this in turn may cause the blood and gills to turn brown and/or lead to eventual death. This process also breaks down red blood cells and very high levels may cause nitrite poisoning, an almost always fatal condition. Nitrates The conversion of nitrites into nitrates is the third and last step in the nitrogen cycle. This is accomplished by the oxidization of nitrites by Nitrobatcer bacteria and the conversion of more dangerous nitrites into less harmful nitrates. While nitrates are less harmful than nitrites (most fish seem to be able to withstand much higher levels of nitrates), they are still of concern especially for marine aquarium hobbyists. This fact is important if you have invertebrate species in your tank, i.e. Discus, Geophagus sp., some dwarf and African cichlid varieties found in the Great Lakes. These species seem to be particularly sensitive to high levels of nitrates and can thus suffer from stress induced illnesses. High nitrate levels can also have damaging effects on the fry and eggs of most species. In addition, the presence of nitrates can lead to stunted growth and stress related illness. Almost all aquarium problems stem from poor water quality and by performing water changes the trouble can be reduced significantly. Problem solver To be successful with your home aquarium, it is important to regularly test both the tank and replacement water for ammonia, nitrites & nitrates. As stated in the introduction, new tanks need to move through the nitrogen cycle for about 4-6 weeks, after which time the appropriate balance can be maintained by a regular water changing regimen. As often as possible (every other week or at least once a month) 10-30% of the water should be changed. Along with changing the water, clean and/or replace filter cartridges, and vacuum substrates to remove accumulated detritus (organic waste buildup). Remember, if your incoming tap water is high in any of the above compounds then it will be necessary to use RO (reverse osmosis), deionized, or other clean water sources. You can also use various types of removing agents along with skimmers and denitrators. However, nothing beats regular maintenance and close monitoring of your aquatic environment. References Andrews, Exell, and Carrington. The Manual of Fish Health. :Blacksburg, Va.:Tetra Press, 1988. Axelrod, Burgess. African Cichlids of Lakes Malawi and Tanganyika. Neptune City, NJ.: TFH Publications, 1978. Green. “Treating the Problem.” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Jan, 1998. Hovanec. “Water Quality – Freshwater. ” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. June, 1996. Hovanec. “Nitrifying Bacteria – Part 1.” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Dec, 1996. Hovanec. “Nitrifying Bacteria – Part 2.” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Jan, 1997. Hovanec. ”The ABC’s of Filtration.” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Aug, 2000. Loiselle. The Cichlid Aquarium. Morris Plains, NJ.: Tetra Press, 1985. Meyer. “ Water Quality – ponds.” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. June, 1996. Meyer. “Pondering Water Testing.” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Nov, 2000. Meyer. “Biological Pond Filtration.” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Dec, 2000. Miller. “A Filter is a Filter is a….” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Aug, 2000. Mills. You & Your Aquarium – A Complete Guide to Collecting and Keeping Aquarium Fishes. NY: Borzoi Book, 1986. Morgan. “Testing the Water.” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. Aug,1999. Skomal. Setting up a Freshwater Aquarium. New York, NY:Howell Book House, 1997. Sprung. “Water Quality – Saltwater.” Aquarium Fish Magazine. Mission Viejo, CA., USA. June, 1996. Riehl. Aquarium Atlas 1. Blacksburg, VA: Mergus (Baensch), Melle, W. Geermany & Tetra Press, 1996. Walstad. Ecology of the Planted Aquarium. Chapel Hill, NC: Echinodorus Publishing, 1999

BETTA GUIDE

© 2003 Pet Industry Advisory Council

GOLDFISH GUIDE

Goldfish bowls or small aquariums are what

hobbyists normally select to keep their goldfish.

Bowls have been used to keep goldfish

in for years however a small aquarium is a

better choice. The larger the bowl or aquarium

the more room your new pet will have to

move around in and the less often you will

need to change the water. Remember your

goldfish will grow.

You will need to find a location for your

bowl or aquarium where it won’t easily get

bumped or be disturbed. The location should

not be in direct sunlight or near heating vents.

Now you should rinse and clean your goldfish

home with tap water. Remember, never

use soap or household cleaning products to

clean your goldfish home or decorations. You

should clean both inside and outside with a

safe cleaner. Glass cleaners normally used for

home windows may not be suitable.

Overfeeding promotes fish waste to build up

to a harmful level. It is best to feed goldfish only

enough flakes that they can eat in five minutes. If

food is seen sitting on the bottom the fish have

been overfed.

© 2003 Pet Industry Advisory Council

CARING FOR

THE REEF

Keeping a reef aquarium can be an educational

tool for you, your family and

friends. In fact, home reef aquariums have provided

biologists with valuable information that

has helped to better understand the ocean reefs.

A reef aquarium is setup primarily for invertebrates

(corals, anemones and crustaceans) with

careful selection of fish to balance the aquarium. 

Determining the Correct

Size Aquarium

Choosing the right size aquarium is your first

decision. The larger the aquarium the greater

number of fish and a more diverse variety of

invertebrates you can have. The larger volume

of water keeps the water chemistry more stable

and less likely to have sudden changes. So

select the size that works best for you, but

remember larger is better. 

Preparing your Tap Water

The reef environment is very sensitive to even

the slightest toxins that may be found in tap

water. It is essential that we provide our reef

aquariums with the best water available. You

will need to filter your tap water to remove any

harmful compounds that may be present. To

accomplish this task you will want to pass your

tap water through a deionization or reverse

osmosis filter to remove any unwanted chemicals.

These filters are readily available through

your local pet shop.

How to Handle Cloudy Water

and Algae

A clean aquarium is a healthy aquarium…

Dirty aquariums not only look bad, they are unhealthy

for the invertebrates and fish. By following a few simple

maintenance steps the aquarium will always look

beautiful. The following steps are an ideal regiment for

keeping a great looking reef aquarium.

© 2003 Pet Industry Advisory Council

CARING FOR

SALTWATER

AQUARIUM FISH

The first decision we need to make is, are we

keeping a fish aquarium or reef aquarium?

A fish aquarium is primarily setup for the fish

with modest decorations. A reef aquarium is

setup for invertebrates (corals, anemones and

crustaceans) with fish used more to balance the

aquarium. Each can be beautiful and successful.

However, the focus is slightly different.

aquarium and decorations

A clean aquarium is

a healthy aquarium

Dirty aquariums not only look bad, they are unhealthy

for the fish. By following a few simple maintenance

steps the aquarium will always look beautiful. The following

steps are an ideal regiment for keeping a great

looking aquarium.

To keep your fish healthy every week or sooner if

the water is cloudy you should change about half of the

water in your goldfish bowl or aquarium. First, remove

half of the old water. Then mix the hot and cold tap

water until it is the same temperature as the water your

goldfish is swimming in. Next fill a bucket with tap

water and add a water conditioner to remove the disinfectants

that are toxic to your fish. Now, refill your

goldfish bowl or aquarium to the usual level. And,

don’t forget to add the aquarium salt for the amount of

water that you have exchanged.

Goldfish Guide Pamphlet Provided by PIJAC

Pet Industry Advisory Council, Washington DC